Drain the oil from the engine. We wash the engine and install it on a disassembly stand or stand
If possible, work on a special turntable that provides access to the engine from all sides, as it is very difficult to fix the engine from moving when unscrewing fasteners tightened with a large torque.
Remove the engine from the car.
Put the engine on solid supports.
Disconnect the gearbox from the engine.
Remove the cylinder head (see "Replacing the cylinder head gasket of the VAZ-21126 engine").
Using the “13” wrench, unscrew the three bolts securing the front support bracket of the power unit to the cylinder block and remove the bracket
Remove the oil filter.
Using a 10 wrench, unscrew the two bolts securing the coolant pump supply pipe to the cylinder block
Remove the pipe
Remove the gasket
When assembling the engine, install a new seal.
Remove the water pump and seal.
Using an 8 wrench, remove the six bolts securing the clutch to the flywheel
Remove the clutch.
Mark the relative position of the flywheel and crankshaft
With a 17" socket, remove the six flywheel mounting bolts and remove the flywheel
Using a 10 wrench, unscrew the sixteen bolts securing the oil sump
Remove the oil pan along with the seal
Using a 10 wrench, unscrew the three bolts securing the oil receiver and remove the oil receiver.
Pay attention: a rubber sealing ring is installed in the groove of the receiver pipe.
Be sure to replace a severely compressed, hardened or torn ring.
Pry with two screwdrivers and remove the toothed pulley from the toe of the crankshaft.
Remove the key from the groove on the toe of the crankshaft.
Key "on 10"unscrew the six bolts securing the oil pump and remove the pump
Using a 10 wrench, unscrew the six bolts securing the crankshaft rear oil seal holder and remove the holder with the oil seal installed in it and the sealing gasket.
Turn the crankshaft so that the piston to be removed is at BDC (bottom dead center).
Using a TORX E10 wrench, remove the two connecting rod cap bolts.
Remove the connecting rod cap.
If it is difficult to remove the cover, first remove it with light blows of a hammer.
The cylinder number on the cap may not be visible, in which case mark the cap with the cylinder number.
Push the connecting rod inside the cylinder with a hammer handle and carefully remove the piston with the connecting rod from the cylinder.
When doing this, make sure that the lower head of the connecting rod does not touch the mirror of the cylinder, otherwise the mirror may be damaged.
Similarly, remove the remaining pistons. If you intend to remove the piston from the connecting rod, mark the piston with the cylinder number so as not to mix up the pistons during installation.
On the connecting rod, as well as on the cover, the cylinder number is stamped; if it is not visible, mark the connecting rod.
Using a “17” wrench, unscrew the two bolts of the five main bearing caps and remove the caps.
The main bearing caps are marked with notches according to the cylinder numbers.
If these marks are not clearly visible, be sure to additionally mark the covers in order to reinstall them in their original places: the covers are not interchangeable (the cylinder block is machined together with the covers).
Remove the crankshaft
Remove the thrust half rings installed in the grooves of the middle bearing of the crankshaft
Remove the liners from the main bearing caps and block beds.
If you do not intend to replace the liners, when removing, mark the liners on the non-working side with respect to covers and beds.
Remove the piston rings with a special tool.
If it is not there, remove the rings from the piston by carefully spreading the ring locks.
Using a screwdriver in the notch on the piston boss, remove the retaining ring holding the piston pin.
Remove the second snap ring in the same way
Using a suitable drift, push the pin out of the piston and remove the piston from the connecting rod
Remove the bearings from the connecting rod and from its cap.
If the liners remain on the crankshaft, remove them from the shaft