We repair the transfer case if there are malfunctions indicated in the article - “Distribution box malfunctions”
For disassembly, you will need keys for 10, 13, 17, 24, 27, a screwdriver, a snap ring puller, a bearing puller, tweezers, a drift, a chisel, a vice with soft metal jaws.
Remove the transfer case and clean it of dirt.
Loosen the nuts of the three flanges of the transfer case shafts.
Remove the speed sensor drive housing.

Disconnect the linkage of the differential lock lever from the axis of the fork of the control lever

Using a 13 key, we unscrew the five nuts securing the front axle drive housing

Pry off the crankcase tides with a screwdriver

Remove it assembled with the front axle drive shaft

The connection is sealed with a gasket

Prying off the lock washer of the locking axis with a screwdriver

Remove the lock washer.

We take out the axle of the differential lock lever (if difficult, we knock it out with a soft metal drift)

Remove the differential lock lever

Two plastic bushings are installed in the lever hole
Turn off the differential lock indicator switch.

Remove the lever spring from the stem of the differential lock fork

With a 13 head, we unscrew the four nuts securing the front axle drive housing cover.

Remove the cover and gasket.

Remove the spring and shake the retainer ball out of the crankcase seat.

Using a 10 key, we unscrew the locking bolt of the differential lock clutch fork

Remove the bolt with spring washer

We pry off the protective cover of the differential lock fork rod with a screwdriver

Remove the stock with a cover

Remove the plug

Remove the differential lock
Unscrew the flange fastening nut and remove the washer.

Remove the flange

Squeeze with tongs, remove the retaining ring of the front axle drive shaft bearing

Remove the shaft assembly from the crankcase

Remove the oil slinger and thrust ring from the front end of the shaft

Hooking the outer ring of the bearing with a three-jaw puller

Compressing the bearing

Using a 13 key, we unscrew the nut of the control lever axis

We remove the axis from the hole in the lever along with the rod.

Remove the control lever.

Remove the spacer sleeve from the lever hole

Remove two plastic bushings

Using a screwdriver, we remove the petals of the locking sleeve from the groove of the lever rod

Remove the sleeve from the lever rod

Remove the lever rod

Having prying with a screwdriver, we remove the rubber bushing and thrust pad from the hole in the rod

Opening the petals of the remote sleeve, remove it from the lever

Remove the rubber bushing from the lever

Remove the spacer.

Using a 13 key, we unscrew the two nuts securing the control lever bracket

Remove the bracket assembly with the plug

Holding the fork, with a head of 13, unscrew the nut of the fork axis

Removing the axle

Two plastic bushings are installed in the bracket hole.
Remove the driveshaft flange nut and remove the washer.

Remove the flange

With a 13 key, we unscrew the three nuts securing the drive shaft front bearing cap

Pry off the tides of the cover with a screwdriver

Remove the cover. The cover is installed on the sealant

Using a 13 head, unscrew the eight nuts securing the rear cover to the transfer case housing

Pry off the cover with a screwdriver

Remove the cover assembly with the rear axle drive shaft

Remove the gasket.
Remove the rear axle drive shaft from the rear cover and disassemble it in the same way as the front axle drive shaft.

Rear axle drive shaft parts and rear cover.

With a head of 10, we unscrew the four nuts securing the hatch

Remove the hatch

Removing the gasket

Inside the hatch, use a 10 spanner to unscrew the bolt securing the fork to the stem.

Use a screwdriver to move the stem cover

So that the ball and the spring of the latch do not pop out, cover the hole with your finger and gradually pull the stem

In this case, the lock ball falls out through the opening of the crankcase.

Remove the retainer spring with tweezers

Remove the shift fork

Remove the plastic spacer.

We take out the stem.

To replace the shift fork rod ring, pry off the O-ring with a screwdriver

Take out the ring.
Also take out the sealing ring of the differential lock fork rod

Unlock the nuts of the rear bearings of the drive and intermediate shafts

Using a 27 wrench, we unscrew one of the nuts, keeping the shafts from turning by the other nut with a wrench

Remove the nut and washer
Insert the propeller shaft mounting bolts into the flange holes and put the flange on the splines of the transfer case drive shaft.

We unscrew the second nut, keeping the shafts from turning with a mounting spatula inserted between the bolts.
Remove the nut and washer.
Remove the drive shaft flange.

Remove the thrust ring of the front bearing of the input shaft.

Using a 13 key, unscrew the three remaining nuts securing the front cover of the box

Remove the front cover of the transfer case and differential.

Remove the gasket from the transfer case housing studs

Use pliers to remove the adjusting ring of the front bearing of the differential housing

Disconnect the differential and the front cover of the transfer case

We knock out the outer ring of the front bearing of the intermediate shaft with a soft metal drift

Using pliers, we open the retaining ring of the front bearing of the differential housing

And remove the ring

Remove the spring washer.

We install a suitable stop for the puller screw and a three-jaw puller in the hole of the front differential housing

Compressing the front bearing.
Also remove the rear bearing.
We put marks on the front and rear differential housings so that the balance is not disturbed during assembly.

We clamp the differential housing in a vice and with a 17 spanner we unscrew the six bolts securing the driven gear and the differential housing.

Disconnect the housings, while the driven gear remains on the front housing

We knock down the gear from the body through a soft metal drift

Disconnecting the driven gear and the front differential case

Remove its support washer from the front axle drive gear

Removing the gear itself

Using pliers, we open the retaining ring of the axis of the satellites and remove it.

We hook another retaining ring with pliers, take out the axis of the satellites

Remove the support washer and satellite from the rear differential housing

Having removed the second satellite and its washer, we remove the rear axle drive gear.

To remove the input and intermediate shafts with pliers, remove the adjusting ring of the rear bearing of the input shaft.
We also dismantle the intermediate shaft rear bearing ring.

Remove the drive shaft from the crankcase

Removing the intermediate shaft

We clamp the splined part of the drive shaft into a vise with soft jaws and, hooking the gear shift clutch with the grips of the puller

Remove the rear bearing, bushing, low gear and clutch

Remove the clutch hub and top gear from the shaft

We press the front bearing of the drive shaft with a puller.

Remove the rollers from the front bearing of the intermediate shaft with a screwdriver

Remove the bearing cage
Clamp the intermediate shaft in a vice with soft pads.

Pry off with two mounting blades, compress the inner ring of the front bearing

Remove it. We also remove the rear bearing of the intermediate shaft.
To check the technical condition of the transfer case parts, thoroughly clean and rinse them with kerosene.
There should be no cracks on the crankcases and box covers, and no wear or damage (chips, dents, etc.) is allowed on the surfaces of the bores for bearings.
Damages on the contact surfaces of crankcases and covers can cause shaft misalignment and oil leakage.
We fix minor damage with a needle file, in case of significant damage and wear, we replace the parts with new ones.
No damage is allowed on working surfaces, threaded parts and shaft splines.
Gear seating surfaces must be free of nicks or wear.
No chipping or excessive wear of gear teeth is allowed.
Ball and roller bearings must be free of damage on raceways, cages, rollers or balls, as well as cracks and chips on rings.
Radial clearances in bearings should not exceed 0.05 mm.
The rotation of the bearing rings must be smooth, without jamming. We replace damaged bearings with new ones.
Deformation of the forks and sticking of the rods in the crankcase holes are not allowed.
We check the absence of signs of jamming on the hub of the gear shift clutch, as well as on the splines of the differential housing. We clean the burrs and burrs with a file.
In case of crushing or destruction of the ends of the coupling teeth, we replace the coupling.
Check the condition of the surface of the axis of the satellites and the holes in the differential housing; in case of minor damage, we grind the surfaces with fine-grained sandpaper.
We check the condition of the surfaces of the journals of the gears of the axle drives and their mounting holes in the differential housings, as well as the condition of the surfaces of the gear bearing washers and the end surfaces mating with them on the housings and gears of the axle drives.
Before assembling the transfer case, we clean the mating surfaces of the crankcases and covers from the remnants of old gaskets and sealant.
We assemble the transfer case in reverse order.
When assembling the center differential, we combine the marks on its housings. We install the spring washer on the axis of the satellites from the side of the blind hole at the end of the axis.

Using pipe sections or tool heads of a suitable size, we press on the inner ring of the front bearing of the intermediate shaft.

We press on the bearing of the front axle drive shaft (the pipe must rest on the inner ring).

Pressing differential bearings
In the same way, we press the bearing of the rear axle drive shaft, the rear bearing of the intermediate shaft, the front and rear bearings of the input shaft
We install the drive and intermediate shafts in the transfer case at the same time.
We apply a thin layer of silicone sealant to all gaskets.
Having tightened the nuts of the rear bearings of the drive and intermediate shafts to the prescribed torque, we lock the nuts by pressing their shoulders into the grooves of the shaft shanks.
After assembly, fill with oil.
Tightening torques for fasteners of transfer case parts
Detail Thread Torque Nm (kgf.m)
Nut for fastening the suspension bracket on the pillow axle M10x1.25 - 26.5-32.3 (2.7-3.3)
Nut for fastening the suspension bracket to the body M8 - 15.0-18.6 (1.53-1.90)
Nut for fastening the covers of the transfer box housing, front axle drive housing, speedometer drive housing, control lever bracket M8 - 14.7-24.5 (1.5-2.5)
Differential lock switch M16x1.5 - 28.4-45.0 (2.9-4.6)
The bolt for fastening the forks to the gear shift rods M6 - 11.8-18.6 (1.2-1.9)
Bolt for fastening the forks to the differential lock rod M12x1.25 - 11.7-18.6 (1.2-1.9)
Bolt for fastening the driven gear M10x1.25 - 66.6-82.3 (6.8-8.4)
Nut for fastening the rear bearing of the input shaft and the rear bearing of the intermediate shaft M18x1.5 - 96.0-117.6 (9.8-12.0)
Nut for fastening the driveshaft flange to the drive shaft and to the drive shafts of the front and rear axles M16x1.5 - 96.0-117.6 (9.8-12.0)
