Let's consider the malfunctions that may occur during engine operation:
- - The crankshaft is not turned by the starter;
- - Strong noise during starter operation;
- - The crankshaft is turned by the starter, but the engine does not start;
- - The engine is unstable or stalls at idle;
- - The engine does not develop full power, the car does not have sufficient throttle response. Jerks and dips when driving a car;
- - Pops in the intake pipe;
- - Shots in the silencer;
- - Increased fuel consumption;
- - Increased oil consumption (more than 500 g per 1000 km);
- - Detonation (high-pitched metallic knocks that occur, as a rule, when the engine is running under load, especially at low speeds, for example, “pull-in” acceleration, etc. and disappear when the load is reduced);
- - Insufficient oil pressure (low oil pressure indicator is on);
- - The engine is overheating (the arrow of the coolant temperature gauge is in the red zone of the scale);
- - The electric fan of the engine cooling system is constantly running (even on a cold engine);
- - The engine takes a long time to warm up to operating temperature;
- - Coolant level drop in the expansion tank;
- - Extraneous noises and knocks in the engine;
- - Strong engine vibration;
- - Increased content of harmful substances in exhaust gases;
- Engine control system malfunction indicator
lights up when the engine is running.
Possible malfunctions - diagnostics - methods of elimination
The crankshaft does not turn with the starter:
|
Possible malfunctions |
Diagnosis |
Remedy |
|---|---|---|
|
Battery low |
The voltage at the battery terminals when consumers are turned off is below 12 V. When the starter is turned on, a crack may be heard from under the hood |
Charge the battery; if it doesn't charge, replace it. The engine can be started by "lighting up" from the battery of another car |
|
Reducing battery capacity |
The voltage at the battery terminals with the consumers turned off is more than 12 V, but when the starter is turned on, it drops below 6-8 V. At the same time, crackling may be heard from under the hood |
Charge the battery with a low current (no more than 1 A); if the capacity is still insufficient, replace the battery. the engine can be started by "lighting up" from the battery of another car |
|
Oxidation of the battery terminals and wire terminals, loose fit
|
When the starter is turned on, the voltage in the on-board network drops much more than at the battery terminals. At the same time, a crack can be heard from under the hood |
Tighten the terminals, clean the contact surfaces, lubricate them with technical vaseline
|
|
Jammed engine or attachments
|
Check if the engine crankshaft, coolant pump, alternator pulley rotate |
OtremoRefit the engine, alternator, replace the coolant pump |
|
Damaged starter drive gear or flywheel teeth |
Inspection after removing the starter |
Repair or replace starter, replace flywheel |
|
Faulty starter enable circuit: faulty starter relay, damaged wires, ignition switch contacts not closing |
When the ignition key is turned to position "2", the starter traction relay does not work (no click under the hood). Check if +12 V is supplied to the control contact of the traction relay |
Replace the faulty ones: starter relay, wires, ignition switch contact group |
|
Faulty starter traction relay: short circuit or open circuit in the retracting winding, sticking of the relay armature (armature misalignment, surface contamination, corrosion, etc.) |
When the key is turned to the "II" position, the traction relay does not work (there is no click under the hood), but +12 V is supplied to the control contact of the traction relay. Remove the relay, check its operation |
Replace defective traction relay |
|
Oxidized contacts of the traction relay or wires, poor ground contact |
When the starter is engaged, a click is heard under the hood, but the starter armature does not rotate. Check the resistance of the "battery → starter" circuit with an ohmmeter, including the "ground" wire. If the circuits are OK, remove the starter and check the operation of the traction relay, it is powered directly from the battery |
Tighten the wire ends, crimp the terminals. Replace defective traction relay |
|
Open or short circuit in the holding winding of the starter traction relay |
When turning on the starter, a crackling noise is heard from under the hood. Battery voltage is within normal limits. An open or short circuit in the holding winding of the starter traction relay is checked with an ohmmeter or by its excessive heating |
Replace starter solenoid |
|
Burning of the starter commutator, sticking of the brushes or their strong wear |
Starter armature does not rotate or rotates slowly. First make sure that the traction relay is working, for which you can supply power to the starter contact bolt directly from the battery, bypassing the relay |
If RPM is low, replace worn parts or starter |
|
Open or short circuit in the starter armature winding |
Starter armature does not rotate or rotates slowly. First make sure that the traction relay is working, for which you can supply power to the starter contact bolt, bypassing the relay. The health of the winding is checked with an ohmmeter or by darkening of the insulation |
Replace anchor or starter |
|
Freewheel slip |
When the starter is turned on, the armature rotates, the flywheel is stationary |
Replace clutch or starter |
Strong noise during starter operation:
|
Possible malfunctions |
Diagnosis |
Remedy |
|---|---|---|
|
The starter is skewed on the clutch housing, its fastening is loose or the cover on the drive side is broken |
Inspection |
Tighten the nuts securing the starter to the clutch housing, if the cover breaks, replace the starter |
|
Excessive wear on bearing bushings or journals on drive shaft and armature. Wear and damage to the gear teeth of the planetary gear |
Inspection after starter disassembly |
Replace planetary gear or starter |
|
The ring gear rotates on the flywheel |
When the starter is turned on, the ring gear rotates, the flywheel and crankshaft are stationary. Screeching, howling from the clutch housing |
Replace flywheel |
|
Worn starter drive gear teeth or (more often) flywheel ring |
Inspection after removing the starter |
Replace drive gear, starter or flywheel |
|
The gear does not disengage from the flywheel: sticking of the drive lever, weakening or breakage of the freewheel clutch spring or starter traction relay, clutch sticking on the splines of the drive shaft or traction relay armature, malfunction of the ignition switch (ignition switch contacts do not open)</ p> |
Check if the voltage is removed from the control output of the starter relay when the ignition key is released, and if the key returns to the "I" position. The opening of the ignition switch contacts can be checked with an ohmmeter. If the voltage at the starter traction relay disappears when the ignition is turned off, remove and disassemble the starter for inspection |
Replace the starter traction relay or starter assembly, ignition switch contact group |
The crankshaft is turned by the starter, but the engine does not start:
|
Possible malfunctions |
Diagnosis |
Remedy |
|---|---|---|
|
There is no fuel in the tank |
According to the fuel level indicator and the fuel reserve indicator |
replenish fuel |
|
Battery low |
The crankshaft is turned by the starter very slowly. The voltage at the battery terminals with the consumers switched off is below 12 V |
Charge the battery: if it does not charge, replace it. the engine can be started by lighting it from the battery of another car |
|
Reducing battery capacity |
The crankshaft turns very slowly. The voltage at the battery terminals when consumers are off is more than 12 V, but when the starter is turned on, it drops to 6-8 V |
Charge the battery with low current (no more than 1A); if the capacity is still insufficient, replace. The engine can be started by lighting from the battery of another car |
|
Oxidation of the wire terminals at the battery terminals, loose fit |
The crankshaft is turned by the starter very slowly. When the starter is turned on, the voltage in the on-board network drops much more than at the battery terminals |
Tighten the terminals, clean the contact surfaces, lubricate them with technical vaseline |
|
Unreliable connection of electrical circuits of engine control and power systems |
Check the connection of the electrical connectors of the wire harnesses, the reliability of the contacts in the blocks of the wire lugs |
Troubleshoot connector connections |
|
Increased resistance to rotation of the engine crankshaft: scuffs on the shafts, bearing shells, parts of the cylinder-piston group; shaft deformation; frozen engine oil; jammed alternator, coolant pump
|
The crankshaft is turned by the starter very slowly If the weather is cold, and the day before the engine was running steadily and without extraneous noise, the most likely cause of increased resistance to rotation is frozen oil. In this case, try starting the engine with a different battery. After starting, do not allow the engine to run at high speeds and watch the low oil pressure indicator: if it lights up, immediately stop the engine for 1-2 minutes so that the thickened oil has time to drain into the sump If extraneous noises are heard when starting or running the engine, check the free rotation of the coolant pump and alternator pulleys |
Use engine oil according to climatic conditions If there is extraneous noise in the area of the block or cylinder head, repair the engine Replace alternator, coolant pump |
|
Fault in the ignition system |
Check spark plugs. If there is no spark, the reason for this may be a malfunction of low voltage devices and circuits (controller, primary winding of the ignition coil) or high voltage (secondary winding of the ignition coil, high voltage wires) |
Check ignition circuits and gauges. Replace defective device and wires. Ensure contact in electrical circuits |
|
The high voltage wires are connected to the ignition coil in the wrong order; wire disconnected |
Inspection |
Connect the wires according to the markings on the ignition coils |
|
Timing belt broken or belt teeth cut off |
Inspection after removing the front timing cover |
Replace the timing belt |
|
defective candles |
Check spark plugs |
Replace spark plugs |
|
Validated valve timing |
Check the alignment of the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys |
Set the correct relative position of the shafts (by marks) |
|
The controller, its circuits or the crankshaft position sensor (less often the coolant temperature sensor) are faulty |
Check if +12V is being supplied to the controller, crankshaft position sensor circuit, the sensor itself is not damaged. If the temperature sensor is faulty, the controller may incorrectly calculate the composition of the fuel mixture |
Replace faulty controller, sensors, wires |
|
Idle speed controller or its circuits are faulty |
When starting the engine, slightly depress the accelerator pedal with the throttle slightly open. If the engine starts, but stalls when the pedal is released, the regulator is faulty |
Replace defective regulator |
|
Blown fuse or faulty main control relay |
Check the fuse and the main relay of the control system niya |
Remove the cause of the blown fuse. Replace fuse or relay. |
|
The fuse of the power circuit of the fuel pump relay has blown, the pump power circuit, its relay or the pump itself are faulty |
There is no pump sound when the ignition is turned on. Check fuse. Supply power directly from the battery to the pump outputs |
Replace the blown fuse, strip the contacts, crimp the wire lugs, replace the faulty relay, pump |
|
Clogged fuel filter, frozen water that got into the power system, deformed fuel lines |
When turning the crankshaft with a starter, the exhaust pipe does not smell of gasoline |
Replace the fuel filter. In winter, put the car in a warm garage, blow out the fuel lines. |
|
The fuel pump does not create the necessary pressure in the system |
Check fuel rail pressure, make sure fuel module strainer is clean |
Clean the fuel module strainer. Faulty fuel pump, pressure regulator replace |
|
The injectors or their power supply circuits are faulty |
Check the injector windings and electrical circuits with an ohmmeter (no open circuit or short circuit) |
Replace defective injectors, ensure contact in electrical circuits |
|
Sucking foreign air into the intake tract |
Inspect the joints, check the fit of the hoses, fittings, tightening clamps. For a while disconnect the vacuum brake booster and plug the receiver fitting |
Torn gaskets, parts with deformed flanges, defective vacuum booster, replace |
Engine runs erratically or stalls at idle
|
Possible malfunctions |
Diagnosis |
Remedy |
|---|---|---|
|
reliable connection of electrical circuits of engine control and power systems |
Check the connection of the electrical connectors of the wire harnesses, the reliability of the contacts in the blocks of the wire lugs |
Troubleshoot connections in connectors |
|
The gap between the electrodes of the candles is not correct |
A gap of 1.0-1.1 mm is checked with a round feeler gauge |
Set the correct gap or replace the spark plugs |
|
A lot of carbon deposits on the electrodes of the spark plugs; soot particles getting into the gap between the electrodes |
Inspection |
Check and replace spark plugs if necessary |
|
Faulty spark plugs: current leakage by cracks in the insulator or by soot thermal cone, poor contact in the central electrode |
The absence of external damage and sparking between the electrodes on an inverted candle does not allow us to conclude that it is working |
Replace spark plugs |
|
damage to the insulation of high-voltage devices and circuits |
Using an ohmmeter, check for an open or breakdown (short to ground) of the ignition coil windings, high-voltage wires |
Replace damaged ignition coil, high voltage wires |
|
Varied valve timing |
Check the alignment of the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys |
Set the correct relative position of the shafts (by marks) |
|
Low compression in the engine cylinders (less than 11 bar): wear or damage to valves, valve guides and seats, Position or breakage of piston rings |
Check compression |
Replace defective parts
|
|
Faulty: phase sensor, throttle position sensor, injectors open or shorted windings, atomizers heavily contaminated |
Check the phase sensor, throttle position sensor, injectors Check if +12 V is being supplied to the controller, injector operation, electrical circuits and sensor |
Replace faulty sensors, wires, injectors. Dirty nozzles can be washed on a special stand |
|
Idle speed controller or its circuits are faulty |
Substitute a known-good regulator |
Replace defective regulator |
|
Sucking foreign air into the intake path |
Inspect the joints, check the fit of hoses, fittings, tightening clamps. At the time of starting, turn off the vacuum brake booster by plugging the receiver fitting |
Torn gaskets, parts with deformed flanges, defective vacuum booster, replace |
|
Faulty fuel pressure regulator |
Check the pressure in the fuel system with a pressure gauge (at least 3.6 bar) |
Replace the defective regulator |
|
The adsorber is faulty, leaks in the hose connections of the tubes of the fuel vapor recovery system |
Check the canister for damage, correct installation of the purge solenoid valve and its connections |
Replace defective adsorber, hoses and tubes. Repair leaks |
|
Throttle valve or actuator stuck. Under these conditions, the controller does not control the engine idling |
Check for ease of movement of the damper |
Adjust actuator, throttle position. Replace throttle body |
|
The control oxygen concentration sensor is faulty |
Signal indicator on You can evaluate the performance of the oxygen concentration sensor and the reliability of the connections of its electrical circuits using diagnostic equipment |
Repair damaged electrical circuits. Replace defective sensor
|
|
Camshaft lobes wear |
Inspection after partial engine disassembly |
Replace the camshaft |
|
Clearances in the valve drive are not adjusted |
Check clearances |
Adjust gaps |
|
Faulty speed sensor |
After stopping the car, the engine runs unevenly, but soon the idle speed stabilizes |
Replace sensor |
The engine does not develop full power, not enough throttle response
Jerks and dips when driving a car
|
Possible malfunctions |
Diagnosis |
Troubleshooting |
|---|---|---|
|
Clogged air filter element |
Check the condition of the air filter element |
Purge or replace replacement element air filter |
|
Increased resistance to the movement of gases in the exhaust system |
Inspect the exhaust system for dented and damaged pipes, check the condition of the catalytic manifold |
Replace damaged exhaust system components |
|
Sucking foreign air into the intake tract |
Inspect the joints, check the fit of the hoses, fittings, tightness of the clamps. For a short time, turn off the vacuum brake booster by plugging the receiver fitting. Carefully. The force on the brake pedal will increase significantly. |
Replace gaskets, parts with deformed flanges, defective vacuum booster |
|
Incomplete throttle opening |
Identified visually with the engine stopped |
Adjust the throttle actuator |
|
Validated valve timing |
Check that the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys match |
Set the correct relative position of the shafts (by marks) |
|
Low compression in the engine cylinders (less than 11 bar): wear or damage to the valves, their guide bushings and seats. occurrence or breakage of piston rings |
Check compression |
Replace defective parts |
|
The gaps between the electrodes of the candles do not correspond to the norm |
Check clearances |
Bending the side electrode, set the desired gap or replace the candles |
|
Strong deposits on the electrodes of the spark plugs; soot particles getting into the gap between the electrodes |
Inspection |
Check and replace spark plugs if necessary |
|
Insulation damage of high-voltage devices and circuits |
Using an ohmmeter, check for an open or "Breakdown (short to ground) of the ignition coil windings, high-voltage wires |
Replace damaged ignition coil, high voltage wires |
|
There is not enough fuel in the tank |
According to the level indicator and the fuel reserve indicator |
replenish fuel |
|
Clogged fuel filter, frozen water that got into the power system, deformed fuel lines |
Check the pressure in the fuel system (at least 3.6 bar) |
Replace the fuel filter. In winter, put the car in a warm garage, blow out the fuel lines. Replace defective hoses and tubes |
|
The fuel pump does not create the necessary pressure in the system |
Check fuel rail pressure, make sure fuel module strainer is clean |
Clean the fuel module strainer. Faulty fuel pump, pressure regulator replace |
|
Bad contact in the fuel pump power circuit (including ground wires) or its relay is faulty |
Checked with an ohmmeter |
Clean the contacts, crimp the wire lugs, replace the faulty relay, wires |
|
Faulty injectors or their circuits |
The warning light is on. Check the injector windings and their circuits with an ohmmeter (no open or short circuit) |
Replace defective injectors, ensure contact in electrical circuits |
|
Incorrectly installed crankshaft position sensor |
Check the gap between the sensor and the teeth of the crankshaft drive disk (0.5-1.5 mm) |
Clean the sensor rod from metal particles. Replace damaged sensor |
|
Faulty phase sensor or its circuit |
Signal indicator on Check the sensor with a tester |
Restore the contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty phase sensor |
|
Faulty mass air flow sensor or its circuit |
You can evaluate the performance of the mass air flow sensor using diagnostic equipment |
Restore the contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
|
One or both oxygen concentration sensors are faulty |
Signal indicator on You can evaluate the performance of oxygen concentration sensors and the reliability of the connections of their electrical circuits using diagnostic equipment |
Repair damaged electrical circuits. Replace defective sensor |
|
The controller or its circuits are faulty |
Warning light may be on to test the controller, replace it known to be good |
Replace the failed controller |
|
Clearances in the valve drive are not adjusted |
Check valve clearances |
Adjust valve clearances |
|
heavy wear of the camshaft lobes |
Inspection after partial engine disassembly |
Replace worn camshaft |
|
slump or broken valve springs |
Inspection during engine disassembly |
Repair the engine |
|
Throttle position sensor or its circuit is working |
Warning light on Check throttle position sensor |
Restore the contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
|
Faulty coolant temperature sensor (engine management system) or its circuit |
Check the resistance of the sensor at different temperatures with a tester |
Restore the contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
|
Pops in the intake pipe |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Clearances in the valve drive are not adjusted |
Check clearances |
Adjust gaps |
|
Inlet valves stuck in guide bushings: tar deposits on valve stem or bushing surfaces, sediment or broken valve springs |
Inspection during engine disassembly |
Repair the engine |
|
Validated valve timing |
Check that the marks on the pulleys match cranked and distributedbody shafts |
Set the correct relative position of the crankshaft and camshaft (by marks) |
|
Shots in silencer |
||
|
Clearances in the valve drive are not adjusted |
Check valve clearances |
Adjust valve clearances |
|
Exhaust valves sticking in bushings: increased wear of the valve stem or bushing, sediment or broken valve springs |
Inspection during engine disassembly |
Repair the engine |
|
Validated valve timing |
Check that the marks on the crankshaft pulleys match and camshafts |
Set the correct relative position of the shafts (by marks) |
|
Faulty spark plugs: current leakage through cracks in the insulator or carbon deposits on the thermal cone, poor contact of the central electrode |
Candles are checked on a special stand. The absence of external damage and sparking between the electrodes on an inverted candle does not allow us to conclude that it is working |
Replace spark plugs |
|
Insulation damage on high-voltage appliances and circuits - interruptions in sparking |
Using an ohmmeter, check for an open or breakdown (short to ground) of the ignition coil windings, high-voltage wires |
Replace the faulty ignition coil, damaged high-voltage wires (when disconnecting the wire, pull on its tip). In severe operating conditions, it is advisable to replace the wires every 3-5 years |
|
Increased fuel consumption |
||
|
Clogged air filter element |
Check the status of the replaceable element air filter |
Purge or replace replacement element air filter |
|
Leakage in the power supply system |
Smell of gasoline, fuel leaks |
Tighten the fuel line connections. Check fit of fittings; When loosening the fit, replace the relevant nodes |
|
Faulty spark plugs: current leakage through cracks in the insulator or carbon deposits on the thermal cone, poor contact of the central electrode |
Candles are checked on a special stand. The absence of external damage and sparking between the electrodes on an inverted candle does not allow us to conclude that it is working |
Replace spark plugs |
|
Throttle actuator failure |
Check the stroke of the "gas" pedal, the gap in the drive (free play of the pedal), make sure that the cable and the pedal are not jammed |
Replace defective parts, lubricate the cable with engine oil |
|
Idle speed controller or its circuits are faulty |
The warning light comes on. Substitute a known-good regulator |
Replace the defective regulator |
|
Throttle does not close fully |
The gap between the throttle valve and the body walls is visible through the light |
Replace throttle body |
|
Increased pressure in the fuel line due to a malfunction of the pressure regulator |
Check the pressure in the fuel system with a pressure gauge (no more than 4.0 bar) |
Replace the defective regulator |
|
Leaking nozzles |
Check the injectors |
Replace defective injectors |
|
Faulty coolant temperature sensor or circuit |
Signal indicator on Check the sensor resistance with an ohmmeter at different temperatures |
Restore the contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
|
One or both oxygen sensors are faulty |
Signal indicator on You can evaluate the performance of oxygen concentration sensors and the reliability of the connections of their electrical circuits using diagnostic equipmentia |
Repair damaged electrical circuits, replace faulty sensor |
|
The controller or its circuits are faulty |
replace the controller with a known test healthy |
Replace faulty controller, repair damaged electrical circuits |
|
Low compression in the engine cylinders (less than 11 bar): wear or damage to the valves, their guide bushings and seats. occurrence or breakage of piston rings |
Check compression |
Adjust valve clearances. Replace defective parts |
|
Faulty throttle position sensor, mass air flow sensor or their circuits |
The warning light is on. Check the sensors and their circuits |
Restore contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor(s) |
|
Increased movement resistance gases in the exhaust system |
Inspect the exhaust system for dented and damaged pipes, check the condition of the catalytic manifold |
Replace damaged exhaust system components |
|
Increased oil consumption (more than 500 g per 1000 km) |
||
|
Oil leakage through: crankshaft and camshaft seals; gaskets for the oil pan, cylinder head, oil pump housing; oil pressure sensor; oil filter seal |
Wash the engine, then check for leaks after a short run |
Tighten the fastening elements of the cylinder head, cylinder head cover, oil pan, replace worn oil seals and gaskets |
|
Wear, loss of elasticity of oil seals (valve seals). Wear of valve stems, guide bushings |
View details |
Replace worn parts
|
|
Wear breakage or coking (loss of mobility) of the piston rings. Wear of pistons, cylinders |
Inspection and measurement of parts after engine disassembly |
Replace worn pistons and rings. Boring and honing cylinders |
|
Using the wrong viscosity oil |
— |
Change the oil |
|
Crankcase ventilation system clogged |
Inspection |
Clean the ventilation system |
|
Knocking (high-pitched metallic knocking, which usually occurs when the engine is running under load, especially at low speeds, for example, “pull-in” acceleration, etc. and disappears when the load is reduced) |
||
|
unacceptably low octane number of gasoline |
— |
Use your vehicle with factory recommended fuel |
|
Engine overheating |
According to the coolant temperature indicator liquids |
Remove the cause of overheating (see "engine overheating" below) |
|
A lot of carbon deposits in the combustion chamber, on the bottoms of the pistons, valve plates |
Inspection after removing the cylinder head |
Remove the cause of carbon formation (see "Increased fuel consumption", "Increased oil consumption"). Apply Oils of the recommended viscosity and, if possible, low ash content |
|
Candles with the wrong glow value are used |
— |
Use spark plugs recommended by the manufacturer |
|
Insufficient oil pressure (low oil pressure warning light on) |
||
|
Low engine oil |
According to the oil level indicator |
add oil |
|
Using the wrong oil viscosities |
— |
Change the oil |
|
Clogging of the oil receiver mesh |
Inspection |
Clear the mesh |
|
Faulty oil filter |
Replace a filter with a known good one |
Replace the defective oil filter |
|
Distortion, clogging of the oil pump pressure relief valve or weakening of the valve spring |
Inspection |
Clean the valve. Replace defective valve or pump |
|
Oil pump gear wear |
Determined by detail measurements after oil pump disassembly |
Replace oil pump |
|
Excessive clearance between bearing shells and crankshaft journals |
Determined by measuring parts after disassembly engine |
Replace worn liners. If necessary, replace or repair the crankshaft |
|
Faulty low oil pressure sensor |
We unscrew the low oil pressure sensor from the hole in the cylinder head and install a known-good sensor instead. If at the same time the signaling device goes out, the turned-out sensor is faulty |
Replace the faulty low oil pressure sensor |
|
engine overheating (coolant temperature gauge is in the red zone of the scale) |
||
|
Faulty sensor or temperature gauge |
Check the pointer and sensor with a tester |
Faulty sensor, pointer - replace |
|
Thermostat is defective |
Check thermostat |
Replace the defective thermostat |
|
Not enough coolant |
The fluid level is below the "MIN" mark on the expansion tank |
Fix leaks, add coolant |
|
A lot of scale in the cooling system |
— |
Flush the cooling system with a descaler. Do not use hard water in the cooling system. Dilute concentrated antifreeze only with distilled water |
|
The radiator cells are dirty |
Inspection |
Rinse the radiator with a pressurized water jet |
|
Faulty water pump |
Remove the pump and inspect the assembly |
Replace pump assembly |
|
The electric cooling fan does not turn on |
Check the electric fan switching circuits |
Restore contact in electrical circuits. Faulty fuse, relay, motor, temperature sensor, controller - replace |
|
Unacceptably low octane number of gasoline |
— |
Use your vehicle with factory recommended fuel |
|
A lot of carbon deposits in the combustion chamber, on the bottoms of the pistons, valve plates |
Inspection after removal of the engine cylinder head |
Remove the cause of carbon formation (see "Increased fuel consumption", "Increased oil consumption". Use oil of the recommended viscosity and, if possible, with a low ash content |
|
Breakthrough of exhaust gases into the cooling system through a damaged cylinder head gasket |
There is an odor in the expansion tank exhaust gases and bubbles pop up |
Replace the cylinder head gasket. Check for flatness bubbles agility of the cylinder block |
|
The electric fan of the engine cooling system is constantly running (even on a cold engine) |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Open circuit in the coolant temperature sensor or its circuit |
Sensor and circuit warning light on tested with an ohmmeter |
Replace the defective sensor |
|
Enable relay contacts do not open electric fan |
Check by tester |
Replace the faulty relay |
|
The controller or its circuits are faulty |
Check the controller or substitute with a known good one |
Replace the failed controller |
|
The engine takes a long time to warm up to operating temperature |
||
|
Thermostat is defective |
Check thermostat |
Replace defective thermostat |
|
Low air temperature (below -15 °С) |
— |
Insulate the engine: install shields in front of the radiator, but do not cover more than half of its area |
|
Coolant level drop in the expansion tank |
||
|
Damage to the radiator, expansion tank, hoses, weakening of their fit on the pipes |
Inspection. The tightness of radiators (engine and heater) is checked in a water bath with compressed air at a pressure of 1 bar |
Replace damaged parts |
|
Fluid leaking through the pump stuffing box coolant |
Inspection |
Replace pump |
|
damaged cylinder head gasket, defective block or cylinder head |
The oil level indicator shows an emulsion with a whitish tint. There may be abundant white smoke from the muffler and oil stains on the surface of the coolant (in the expansion tank). Coolant leaks on the outer surface of the engine |
Replace damaged parts. Do not use water in the cooling system, fill in coolant suitable for climatic conditions |
|
Extraneous noises and knocks in the engine |
||
|
Clearances in the valve drive are not adjusted |
Check clearances |
Adjust gaps |
|
Sag or broken valve springs |
Inspection during engine disassembly |
Repair the engine |
|
The timing belt is worn out. Faulty drive tensioner |
Inspection |
Replace the belt. Replace the faulty timing chain tensioner |
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Knocking crankshaft and camshaft, connecting rod and main bearings, pistons, piston pins, play or jamming in the bearings of the generator, coolant pump |
Check |
Repair or replacement of parts |
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Lost elasticity or collapsed one or more supports of the power unit |
Inspection |
Replace the support |
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low pressure in the oil line at minimum idle speed, the pressure in the lubrication system of a warm engine must be at least 2.0 bar) |
Check the pressure in the lubrication system. You can measure the pressure by connecting pressure gauge to the oil line by unscrewing the oil pressure sensor |
Troubleshoot the lubrication system
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Strong engine vibration |
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Uneven compression across the cylinders is more than 2 bar: gaps in the valve drive are not adjusted, wear or damage to valves, seats; wear, sticking or breakage of piston rings |
Checking the compression. Compression must be at least 11 bar |
Adjust valve clearances. Replace defective parts |
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Insulation damage on high-voltage appliances and circuits - interruptions in sparking |
Using an ohmmeter, check for an open or "breakdown" of the ignition coil windings and high-voltage wires |
Replace faulty ignition coil, damaged high voltage wires. Under severe operating conditions (salt on the roads, frost alternating with thaws), it is advisable to replace the wires every 3-5 years |
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The high voltage wires are connected to the ignition coil in the wrong order; one or more wires are disconnected |
Inspection |
Connect the wires according to the markings on the ignition coil |
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defective spark plugs |
Check spark plugs |
Replace defective spark plugs |
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The gap between the electrodes of the candles is not correct |
A gap of 1.0-1.1 mm is checked with a round feeler gauge |
Bending the side electrode, set the desired gap or replace the candles |
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Strong deposits on the electrodes of the spark plugs; soot particles getting into the gap between the electrodes |
Inspection. By soot, you can, as a rule, determine the performance of the candle and the condition of the engine |
Clean the spark plugs with compressed air or mechanically. (Do not damage the insulator!). Identify and eliminate the cause of increased carbon formation in the combustion chamber, replace if necessary candles |
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Open or short circuit in the windings of the injectors or their circuits |
Check the injector windings and their circuits with an ohmmeter |
Replace defective injectors, ensure contact in electrical circuits |
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Nozzles are leaking (overflow) or their nozzles are dirty |
Check the tightness and shape of the nozzle spray pattern |
Dirty nozzles can be washed on a special stand. Leaky and heavily soiled nozzles should be replaced |
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The idle speed controller or its electrical circuit is faulty |
Warning light may be on. Substitute a known-good regulator |
Replace defective regulator |
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The supports of the power unit have lost elasticity or collapsed, their fastening has weakened |
Inspection |
Replace supports, tighten fasteners |
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Increased content of harmful substances in exhaust gases |
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Nozzles are leaking (overflow) or their nozzles are dirty |
Check the tightness and shape of the nozzle spray pattern |
Dirty nozzles can be washed on a special stand. Replace leaking and heavily soiled nozzles |
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Insulation damage on high-voltage appliances and circuits - interruptions in sparking |
To check high-voltage wires and ignition coils, replace them with known good ones |
Replace faulty ignition coil, damaged high voltage wires. Under severe operating conditions (salt on the roads, frost alternating with thaws), it is advisable to replace the wires every 3-5 years |
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defective spark plugs: current leakage through cracks in the insulator or carbon deposits on the thermal cone, poor contact of the central electrode |
Check the candles |
Replace defective spark plugs |
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The phase sensor or its circuits are faulty |
Signal indicator on Using a tester, check the health of the phase sensor |
Restore the contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
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Faulty coolant temperature sensor |
Check the resistance of the sensor with an ohmmeter at various temperatures. |
Replace the defective sensor |
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Faulty throttle position sensor or circuit |
The warning light is on. Check throttle position sensor |
Restore the contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
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One or both oxygen sensors are faulty |
Signal indicator on You can evaluate the performance of oxygen concentration sensors and the reliability of their electrical circuit connections using diagnostic equipment. |
Repair damaged electrical circuits. Replace defective sensor(s) |
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Mass air flow sensor and its circuits are faulty |
The warning light is on. Check the health of the mass sensor Air flow can be done using diagnostic equipment |
Restore contacts in electrical circuits. Replace the defective mass air flow sensor |
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The controller or its circuits are faulty |
substitute a known-good controller for testing |
Restore contacts in electrical circuits. Replace defective controller |
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Leakage in the exhaust system in the area between the collector and the pipe of the additional muffler |
Inspection at medium crankshaft speed |
Replace the defective gasket, tighten the threaded connections |
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Faulty catalytic converter |
The warning light is on. You can check the serviceability of the exhaust gas catalytic converter using diagnostic equipment |
Replace catalytic converter |
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Increased pressure in the fuel lines due to a faulty pressure regulator |
Inspection, pressure gauge test in the fuel system (max. 4.0 bar) at idle |
Replace the defective regulator |
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The engine control system warning light comes on when the engine is running |
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The controller, sensors, injectors or their circuits are faulty. The malfunction may be temporary, then the signaling device may go out by itself, without any intervention |
See previous troubleshooting sections. Complete diagnostics of the control systemtsya using specialized equipment |
If most sensors fail (except for the crankshaft position sensor), you can drive to the repair site on your own. Replace faulty controller, sensors, injectors, wires |
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Separate sensors, injectors were disconnected (possibly for testing), after which the ignition was turned on (the engine was started). At the same time, the corresponding fault code is recorded in the computer's memory, which is not erased even after the electrical connections are restored |
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Remove the negative cable terminal from the battery terminal for at least 10 seconds. In this case, all fault codes are erased from the controller's memory |