Let's consider the malfunctions that may occur during engine operation:

  • - The crankshaft is not turned by the starter;
  • - Strong noise during starter operation;
  • - The crankshaft is turned by the starter, but the engine does not start;
  • - The engine is unstable or stalls at idle;
  • - The engine does not develop full power, the car does not have sufficient throttle response. Jerks and dips when driving a car;
  • - Pops in the intake pipe;
  • - Shots in the silencer;
  • - Increased fuel consumption;
  • - Increased oil consumption (more than 500 g per 1000 km);
  • - Detonation (high-pitched metallic knocks that occur, as a rule, when the engine is running under load, especially at low speeds, for example, “pull-in” acceleration, etc. and disappear when the load is reduced);
  • - Insufficient oil pressure (low oil pressure indicator is on);
  • - The engine is overheating (the arrow of the coolant temperature gauge is in the red zone of the scale);
  • - The electric fan of the engine cooling system is constantly running (even on a cold engine);
  • - The engine takes a long time to warm up to operating temperature;
  • - Coolant level drop in the expansion tank;
  • - Extraneous noises and knocks in the engine;
  • - Strong engine vibration;
  • - Increased content of harmful substances in exhaust gases;

- Engine control system malfunction indicatorEngine malfunction lights up when the engine is running.

Possible malfunctions - diagnostics - methods of elimination

The crankshaft does not turn with the starter:

Possible malfunctions

Diagnosis

Remedy

Battery low

The voltage at the battery terminals when consumers are turned off is below 12 V. When the starter is turned on, a crack may be heard from under the hood

Charge the battery; if it doesn't charge, replace it. The engine can be started by "lighting up" from the battery of another car

Reducing battery capacity

The voltage at the battery terminals with the consumers turned off is more than 12 V, but when the starter is turned on, it drops below 6-8 V. At the same time, crackling may be heard from under the hood

Charge the battery with a low current (no more than 1 A); if the capacity is still insufficient, replace the battery. the engine can be started by "lighting up" from the battery of another car

Oxidation of the battery terminals and wire terminals, loose fit

 

When the starter is turned on, the voltage in the on-board network drops much more than at the battery terminals. At the same time, a crack can be heard from under the hood

Tighten the terminals, clean the contact surfaces, lubricate them with technical vaseline

 

Jammed engine or attachments

 

Check if the engine crankshaft, coolant pump, alternator pulley rotate

OtremoRefit the engine, alternator, replace the coolant pump

Damaged starter drive gear or flywheel teeth

Inspection after removing the starter

Repair or replace starter, replace flywheel

Faulty starter enable circuit: faulty starter relay, damaged wires, ignition switch contacts not closing

When the ignition key is turned to position "2", the starter traction relay does not work (no click under the hood). Check if +12 V is supplied to the control contact of the traction relay

Replace the faulty ones: starter relay, wires, ignition switch contact group

Faulty starter traction relay: short circuit or open circuit in the retracting winding, sticking of the relay armature (armature misalignment, surface contamination, corrosion, etc.)

When the key is turned to the "II" position, the traction relay does not work (there is no click under the hood), but +12 V is supplied to the control contact of the traction relay. Remove the relay, check its operation

Replace defective traction relay

Oxidized contacts of the traction relay or wires, poor ground contact

When the starter is engaged, a click is heard under the hood, but the starter armature does not rotate. Check the resistance of the "battery → starter" circuit with an ohmmeter, including the "ground" wire. If the circuits are OK, remove the starter and check the operation of the traction relay, it is powered directly from the battery

Tighten the wire ends, crimp the terminals. Replace defective traction relay

Open or short circuit in the holding winding of the starter traction relay

When turning on the starter, a crackling noise is heard from under the hood. Battery voltage is within normal limits. An open or short circuit in the holding winding of the starter traction relay is checked with an ohmmeter or by its excessive heating

Replace starter solenoid

Burning of the starter commutator, sticking of the brushes or their strong wear

Starter armature does not rotate or rotates slowly. First make sure that the traction relay is working, for which you can supply power to the starter contact bolt directly from the battery, bypassing the relay

If RPM is low, replace worn parts or starter

Open or short circuit in the starter armature winding

Starter armature does not rotate or rotates slowly. First make sure that the traction relay is working, for which you can supply power to the starter contact bolt, bypassing the relay. The health of the winding is checked with an ohmmeter or by darkening of the insulation

Replace anchor or starter

Freewheel slip

When the starter is turned on, the armature rotates, the flywheel is stationary

Replace clutch or starter

Strong noise during starter operation:

Possible malfunctions

Diagnosis

Remedy

The starter is skewed on the clutch housing, its fastening is loose or the cover on the drive side is broken

Inspection

Tighten the nuts securing the starter to the clutch housing, if the cover breaks, replace the starter

Excessive wear on bearing bushings or journals on drive shaft and armature. Wear and damage to the gear teeth of the planetary gear

Inspection after starter disassembly

Replace planetary gear or

starter

The ring gear rotates on the flywheel

When the starter is turned on, the ring gear rotates, the flywheel and crankshaft are stationary. Screeching, howling from the clutch housing

Replace flywheel

Worn starter drive gear teeth or (more often) flywheel ring

Inspection after removing the starter

Replace drive gear, starter or flywheel

The gear does not disengage from the flywheel: sticking of the drive lever, weakening or breakage of the freewheel clutch spring or starter traction relay, clutch sticking on the splines of the drive shaft or traction relay armature, malfunction of the ignition switch (ignition switch contacts do not open)</ p>

Check if the voltage is removed from the control output of the starter relay when the ignition key is released, and if the key returns to the "I" position. The opening of the ignition switch contacts can be checked with an ohmmeter. If the voltage at the starter traction relay disappears when the ignition is turned off, remove and disassemble the starter for inspection

Replace the starter traction relay or starter assembly, ignition switch contact group

The crankshaft is turned by the starter, but the engine does not start:

Possible malfunctions

Diagnosis

Remedy

There is no fuel in the tank

According to the fuel level indicator and the fuel reserve indicator

replenish fuel

Battery low

The crankshaft is turned by the starter very slowly. The voltage at the battery terminals with the consumers switched off is below 12 V

Charge the battery: if it does not charge, replace it. the engine can be started by lighting it from the battery of another car

Reducing battery capacity

The crankshaft turns very slowly. The voltage at the battery terminals when consumers are off is more than 12 V, but when the starter is turned on, it drops to 6-8 V

Charge the battery with low current (no more than 1A); if the capacity is still insufficient, replace. The engine can be started by lighting from the battery of another car

Oxidation of the wire terminals at the battery terminals, loose fit

The crankshaft is turned by the starter very slowly. When the starter is turned on, the voltage in the on-board network drops much more than at the battery terminals

Tighten the terminals, clean the contact surfaces, lubricate them with technical vaseline

Unreliable connection of electrical circuits of engine control and power systems

Check the connection of the electrical connectors of the wire harnesses, the reliability of the contacts in the blocks of the wire lugs

Troubleshoot connector connections

Increased resistance to rotation of the engine crankshaft: scuffs on the shafts, bearing shells, parts of the cylinder-piston group; shaft deformation; frozen engine oil; jammed alternator, coolant pump

 

The crankshaft is turned by the starter very slowly

If the weather is cold, and the day before the engine was running steadily and without extraneous noise, the most likely cause of increased resistance to rotation is frozen oil. In this case, try starting the engine with a different battery. After starting, do not allow the engine to run at high speeds and watch the low oil pressure indicator: if it lights up, immediately stop the engine for 1-2 minutes so that the thickened oil has time to drain into the sump

If extraneous noises are heard when starting or running the engine, check the free rotation of the coolant pump and alternator pulleys

Use engine oil according to climatic conditions

If there is extraneous noise in the area of ​​​​the block or cylinder head, repair the engine

Replace alternator, coolant pump

Fault in the ignition system

Check spark plugs. If there is no spark, the reason for this may be a malfunction of low voltage devices and circuits (controller, primary winding of the ignition coil) or high voltage (secondary winding of the ignition coil, high voltage wires)

Check ignition circuits and gauges. Replace defective device and wires. Ensure contact in electrical circuits

The high voltage wires are connected to the ignition coil in the wrong order; wire disconnected

Inspection

Connect the wires according to the markings on the ignition coils

Timing belt broken or belt teeth cut off

Inspection after removing the front timing cover

Replace the timing belt

defective candles

Check spark plugs

Replace spark plugs

Validated valve timing

Check the alignment of the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys

Set the correct relative position of the shafts (by marks)

The controller, its circuits or the crankshaft position sensor (less often the coolant temperature sensor) are faulty

Check if +12V is being supplied to the controller, crankshaft position sensor circuit, the sensor itself is not damaged. If the temperature sensor is faulty, the controller may incorrectly calculate the composition of the fuel mixture

Replace faulty controller, sensors, wires

Idle speed controller or its circuits are faulty

When starting the engine, slightly depress the accelerator pedal with the throttle slightly open. If the engine starts, but stalls when the pedal is released, the regulator is faulty

Replace defective regulator

Blown fuse or faulty main control relay

Check the fuse and the main relay of the control system niya

Remove the cause of the blown fuse. Replace fuse or relay.

The fuse of the power circuit of the fuel pump relay has blown, the pump power circuit, its relay or the pump itself are faulty

There is no pump sound when the ignition is turned on. Check fuse. Supply power directly from the battery to the pump outputs

Replace the blown fuse, strip the contacts, crimp the wire lugs, replace the faulty relay, pump

Clogged fuel filter, frozen water that got into the power system, deformed fuel lines

When turning the crankshaft with a starter, the exhaust pipe does not smell of gasoline

Replace the fuel filter. In winter, put the car in a warm garage, blow out the fuel lines.

The fuel pump does not create the necessary pressure in the system

Check fuel rail pressure, make sure fuel module strainer is clean

Clean the fuel module strainer. Faulty fuel pump, pressure regulator replace

The injectors or their power supply circuits are faulty

Check the injector windings and electrical circuits with an ohmmeter (no open circuit or short circuit)

Replace defective injectors, ensure contact in electrical circuits

Sucking foreign air into the intake tract

Inspect the joints, check the fit of the hoses,

fittings, tightening clamps. For a while

disconnect the vacuum brake booster and plug the receiver fitting

Torn gaskets, parts with deformed flanges, defective vacuum booster, replace

Engine runs erratically or stalls at idle

Possible malfunctions

Diagnosis

Remedy

reliable connection of electrical circuits of engine control and power systems

Check the connection of the electrical connectors of the wire harnesses, the reliability of the contacts in the blocks of the wire lugs

Troubleshoot connections in connectors

The gap between the electrodes of the candles is not correct

A gap of 1.0-1.1 mm is checked with a round feeler gauge

Set the correct gap or replace the spark plugs

A lot of carbon deposits on the electrodes of the spark plugs; soot particles getting into the gap between the electrodes

Inspection

Check and replace spark plugs if necessary

Faulty spark plugs: current leakage

by cracks in the insulator or by soot

thermal cone, poor contact

in the central electrode

The absence of external damage and sparking between the electrodes on an inverted candle does not allow us to conclude that it is working

Replace spark plugs

damage to the insulation of high-voltage devices and circuits

Using an ohmmeter, check for an open or breakdown (short to ground) of the ignition coil windings, high-voltage wires

Replace damaged ignition coil, high voltage wires

Varied valve timing

Check the alignment of the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys

Set the correct relative position of the shafts (by marks)

Low compression in the engine cylinders

(less than 11 bar): wear or damage to valves, valve guides and seats,

Position or breakage of piston rings

Check compression

Replace defective parts

 

Faulty: phase sensor, throttle position sensor, injectors open or shorted windings, atomizers heavily contaminated

Check the phase sensor, throttle position sensor, injectors

Check if +12 V is being supplied to the controller, injector operation, electrical circuits and sensor

Replace faulty sensors, wires, injectors. Dirty nozzles can be washed on a special stand

Idle speed controller or its circuits are faulty

Substitute a known-good regulator

Replace defective regulator

Sucking foreign air into the intake

path

Inspect the joints, check the fit of hoses, fittings, tightening clamps. At the time of starting, turn off the vacuum brake booster by plugging the receiver fitting

Torn gaskets, parts with deformed flanges, defective vacuum booster, replace

Faulty fuel pressure regulator

Check the pressure in the fuel system with a pressure gauge (at least 3.6 bar)

Replace the defective regulator

The adsorber is faulty, leaks in the hose connections of the tubes of the fuel vapor recovery system

Check the canister for damage, correct installation of the purge solenoid valve and its connections

Replace defective adsorber, hoses and tubes. Repair leaks

Throttle valve or actuator stuck. Under these conditions, the controller does not control the engine idling

Check for ease of movement of the damper

Adjust actuator, throttle position. Replace throttle body

The control oxygen concentration sensor is faulty

Signal indicator on

You can evaluate the performance of the oxygen concentration sensor and the reliability of the connections of its electrical circuits using diagnostic equipment

Repair damaged electrical circuits. Replace defective sensor

 

Camshaft lobes wear

Inspection after partial engine disassembly

Replace the camshaft

Clearances in the valve drive are not adjusted

Check clearances

Adjust gaps

Faulty speed sensor

After stopping the car, the engine runs unevenly, but soon the idle speed stabilizes

Replace sensor

The engine does not develop full power, not enough throttle response

Jerks and dips when driving a car

Possible malfunctions

Diagnosis

Troubleshooting

Clogged air filter element

Check the condition of the air filter element

Purge or replace replacement element

air filter

Increased resistance to the movement of gases in the exhaust system

Inspect the exhaust system for dented and damaged pipes, check the condition of the catalytic manifold

Replace damaged exhaust system components

Sucking foreign air into the intake tract

Inspect the joints, check the fit of the hoses, fittings, tightness of the clamps. For a short time, turn off the vacuum brake booster by plugging the receiver fitting. Carefully. The force on the brake pedal will increase significantly.

Replace gaskets, parts with deformed flanges, defective vacuum booster

Incomplete throttle opening

Identified visually with the engine stopped

Adjust the throttle actuator

Validated valve timing

Check that the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys match

Set the correct relative position of the shafts (by marks)

Low compression in the engine cylinders (less than 11 bar): wear or damage to the valves, their guide bushings and seats. occurrence or breakage of piston rings

Check compression

Replace defective parts

The gaps between the electrodes of the candles do not correspond to the norm

Check clearances

Bending the side electrode, set the desired gap or replace the candles

Strong deposits on the electrodes of the spark plugs; soot particles getting into the gap between the electrodes

Inspection

Check and replace spark plugs if necessary

Insulation damage of high-voltage devices and circuits

Using an ohmmeter, check for an open or "Breakdown (short to ground) of the ignition coil windings, high-voltage wires

Replace damaged ignition coil, high voltage wires

There is not enough fuel in the tank

According to the level indicator and the fuel reserve indicator

replenish fuel

Clogged fuel filter, frozen water that got into the power system, deformed fuel lines

Check the pressure in the fuel system (at least 3.6 bar)

Replace the fuel filter. In winter, put the car in a warm garage, blow out the fuel lines. Replace defective hoses and tubes

The fuel pump does not create the necessary pressure in the system

Check fuel rail pressure, make sure fuel module strainer is clean

Clean the fuel module strainer. Faulty fuel pump, pressure regulator replace

Bad contact in the fuel pump power circuit (including ground wires) or its relay is faulty

Checked with an ohmmeter

Clean the contacts, crimp the wire lugs, replace the faulty relay, wires

Faulty injectors or their circuits

The warning light is on. Check the injector windings and their circuits with an ohmmeter (no open or short circuit)

Replace defective injectors, ensure contact in electrical circuits

Incorrectly installed crankshaft position sensor

Check the gap between the sensor and the teeth of the crankshaft drive disk (0.5-1.5 mm)

Clean the sensor rod from metal particles. Replace damaged sensor

Faulty phase sensor or its circuit

Signal indicator on

Check the sensor with a tester

Restore the contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty phase sensor

Faulty mass air flow sensor or its circuit

You can evaluate the performance of the mass air flow sensor using diagnostic equipment

Restore the contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor

One or both oxygen concentration sensors are faulty

Signal indicator on

You can evaluate the performance of oxygen concentration sensors and the reliability of the connections of their electrical circuits using diagnostic equipment

Repair damaged electrical circuits. Replace defective sensor

The controller or its circuits are faulty

Warning light may be on

to test the controller, replace it

known to be good

Replace the failed controller

Clearances in the valve drive are not adjusted

Check valve clearances

Adjust valve clearances

heavy wear of the camshaft lobes

Inspection after partial engine disassembly

Replace worn camshaft

slump or broken valve springs

Inspection during engine disassembly

Repair the engine

Throttle position sensor or its circuit is working

Warning light on Check throttle position sensor

Restore the contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor

Faulty coolant temperature sensor (engine management system) or its circuit

Check the resistance of the sensor at different temperatures with a tester

Restore the contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor

 

Pops in the intake pipe

Clearances in the valve drive are not adjusted

Check clearances

Adjust gaps

Inlet valves stuck in guide bushings: tar deposits on valve stem or bushing surfaces, sediment or broken valve springs

Inspection during engine disassembly

Repair the engine

Validated valve timing

Check that the marks on the pulleys match

cranked and distributedbody shafts

Set the correct relative position of the crankshaft and camshaft (by marks)

Shots in silencer

Clearances in the valve drive are not adjusted

Check valve clearances

Adjust valve clearances

Exhaust valves sticking in bushings: increased wear of the valve stem or bushing, sediment or broken valve springs

Inspection during engine disassembly

Repair the engine

Validated valve timing

Check that the marks on the crankshaft pulleys match

and camshafts

Set the correct relative position of the shafts (by marks)

Faulty spark plugs: current leakage through cracks in the insulator or carbon deposits on the thermal cone, poor contact of the central electrode

Candles are checked on a special stand. The absence of external damage and sparking between the electrodes on an inverted candle does not allow us to conclude that it is working

Replace spark plugs

Insulation damage on high-voltage appliances and circuits - interruptions in sparking

Using an ohmmeter, check for an open or breakdown (short to ground) of the ignition coil windings, high-voltage wires

Replace the faulty ignition coil, damaged high-voltage wires (when disconnecting the wire, pull on its tip). In severe operating conditions, it is advisable to replace the wires every 3-5 years

Increased fuel consumption

Clogged air filter element

Check the status of the replaceable element

air filter

Purge or replace replacement element

air filter

Leakage in the power supply system

Smell of gasoline, fuel leaks

Tighten the fuel line connections. Check fit of fittings;

When loosening the fit, replace the relevant nodes

Faulty spark plugs: current leakage through cracks in the insulator or carbon deposits on the thermal cone, poor contact of the central electrode

Candles are checked on a special stand. The absence of external damage and sparking between the electrodes on an inverted candle does not allow us to conclude that it is working

Replace spark plugs

Throttle actuator failure

Check the stroke of the "gas" pedal, the gap in the drive (free play of the pedal), make sure that the cable and the pedal are not jammed

Replace defective parts, lubricate the cable with engine oil

Idle speed controller or its circuits are faulty

The warning light comes on. Substitute a known-good regulator

Replace the defective regulator

Throttle does not close fully

The gap between the throttle valve and the body walls is visible through the light

Replace throttle body

Increased pressure in the fuel line due to a malfunction of the pressure regulator

Check the pressure in the fuel system with a pressure gauge (no more than 4.0 bar)

Replace the defective regulator

Leaking nozzles

Check the injectors

Replace defective injectors

Faulty coolant temperature sensor or circuit

Signal indicator on

Check the sensor resistance with an ohmmeter at different temperatures

Restore the contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor

One or both oxygen sensors are faulty

Signal indicator on

You can evaluate the performance of oxygen concentration sensors and the reliability of the connections of their electrical circuits using diagnostic equipmentia

Repair damaged electrical circuits, replace faulty sensor

The controller or its circuits are faulty

replace the controller with a known test

healthy

Replace faulty controller, repair damaged electrical circuits

Low compression in the engine cylinders (less than 11 bar): wear or damage to the valves, their guide bushings and seats. occurrence or breakage of piston rings

Check compression

Adjust valve clearances. Replace defective parts

Faulty throttle position sensor, mass air flow sensor or their circuits

The warning light is on. Check the sensors and their circuits

Restore contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor(s)

Increased movement resistance

gases in the exhaust system

Inspect the exhaust system for dented and damaged pipes, check the condition of the catalytic manifold

Replace damaged exhaust system components

Increased oil consumption (more than 500 g per 1000 km)

Oil leakage through: crankshaft and camshaft seals; gaskets for the oil pan, cylinder head, oil pump housing; oil pressure sensor; oil filter seal

Wash the engine, then check for leaks after a short run

Tighten the fastening elements of the cylinder head, cylinder head cover, oil pan, replace worn oil seals and gaskets

Wear, loss of elasticity of oil seals (valve seals). Wear of valve stems, guide bushings

View details

Replace worn parts

 

Wear breakage or coking (loss of mobility) of the piston rings. Wear of pistons, cylinders

Inspection and measurement of parts after engine disassembly

Replace worn pistons and rings. Boring and honing cylinders

Using the wrong viscosity oil

Change the oil

Crankcase ventilation system clogged

Inspection

Clean the ventilation system

Knocking (high-pitched metallic knocking, which usually occurs when the engine is running under load, especially at low speeds, for example, “pull-in” acceleration, etc. and disappears when the load is reduced)

unacceptably low octane number of gasoline

Use your vehicle with factory recommended fuel

Engine overheating

According to the coolant temperature indicator

liquids

Remove the cause of overheating (see "engine overheating" below)

A lot of carbon deposits in the combustion chamber, on the bottoms of the pistons, valve plates

Inspection after removing the cylinder head

Remove the cause of carbon formation

(see "Increased fuel consumption", "Increased oil consumption"). Apply

Oils of the recommended viscosity and, if possible, low ash content

Candles with the wrong glow value are used

Use spark plugs recommended by the manufacturer

Insufficient oil pressure (low oil pressure warning light on)

Low engine oil

According to the oil level indicator

add oil

Using the wrong oil

viscosities

Change the oil

Clogging of the oil receiver mesh

Inspection

Clear the mesh

Faulty oil filter

Replace a filter with a known good one

Replace the defective oil filter

Distortion, clogging of the oil pump pressure relief valve or weakening of the valve spring

Inspection

Clean the valve. Replace defective valve or pump

Oil pump gear wear

Determined by detail measurements after

oil pump disassembly

Replace oil pump

Excessive clearance between bearing shells and crankshaft journals

Determined by measuring parts after disassembly

engine

Replace worn liners. If necessary, replace or repair the crankshaft

Faulty low oil pressure sensor

We unscrew the low oil pressure sensor from the hole in the cylinder head and install a known-good sensor instead. If at the same time the signaling device goes out, the turned-out sensor is faulty

Replace the faulty low oil pressure sensor

engine overheating (coolant temperature gauge is in the red zone of the scale)

Faulty sensor or temperature gauge

Check the pointer and sensor with a tester

Faulty sensor, pointer - replace

Thermostat is defective

Check thermostat

Replace the defective thermostat

Not enough coolant

The fluid level is below the "MIN" mark on the expansion tank

Fix leaks, add coolant

A lot of scale in the cooling system

Flush the cooling system with a descaler. Do not use hard water in the cooling system. Dilute concentrated antifreeze only with distilled water

The radiator cells are dirty

Inspection

Rinse the radiator with a pressurized water jet

Faulty water pump

Remove the pump and inspect the assembly

Replace pump assembly

The electric cooling fan does not turn on

Check the electric fan switching circuits

Restore contact in electrical circuits. Faulty fuse, relay, motor, temperature sensor, controller - replace

Unacceptably low octane number of gasoline

Use your vehicle with factory recommended fuel

A lot of carbon deposits in the combustion chamber, on the bottoms of the pistons, valve plates

Inspection after removal of the engine cylinder head

Remove the cause of carbon formation (see "Increased fuel consumption", "Increased oil consumption". Use oil of the recommended viscosity and, if possible, with a low ash content

Breakthrough of exhaust gases into the cooling system through a damaged cylinder head gasket

There is an odor in the expansion tank

exhaust gases and bubbles pop up

Replace the cylinder head gasket. Check for flatness

bubbles agility of the cylinder block

 

The electric fan of the engine cooling system is constantly running

(even on a cold engine)

Open circuit in the coolant temperature sensor or its circuit

Sensor and circuit warning light on

tested with an ohmmeter

Replace the defective sensor

Enable relay contacts do not open

electric fan

Check by tester

Replace the faulty relay

The controller or its circuits are faulty

Check the controller or substitute with a known good one

Replace the failed controller

The engine takes a long time to warm up to operating temperature

Thermostat is defective

Check thermostat

Replace defective thermostat

Low air temperature (below -15 °С)

Insulate the engine: install shields in front of the radiator, but do not cover more than half of its area

Coolant level drop in the expansion tank

Damage to the radiator, expansion tank, hoses, weakening of their fit on the pipes

Inspection. The tightness of radiators (engine and heater) is checked in a water bath with compressed air at a pressure of 1 bar

Replace damaged parts

Fluid leaking through the pump stuffing box

coolant

Inspection

Replace pump

damaged cylinder head gasket, defective block or cylinder head

The oil level indicator shows an emulsion with a whitish tint. There may be abundant white smoke from the muffler and oil stains on the surface of the coolant (in the expansion tank). Coolant leaks on the outer surface of the engine

Replace damaged parts. Do not use water in the cooling system, fill in coolant suitable for climatic conditions

Extraneous noises and knocks in the engine

Clearances in the valve drive are not adjusted

Check clearances

Adjust gaps

Sag or broken valve springs

Inspection during engine disassembly

Repair the engine

The timing belt is worn out. Faulty drive tensioner

Inspection

Replace the belt. Replace the faulty timing chain tensioner

Knocking crankshaft and camshaft, connecting rod and main bearings, pistons, piston pins, play or jamming in the bearings of the generator, coolant pump

Check

Repair or replacement of parts

Lost elasticity or collapsed one or more supports of the power unit

Inspection

Replace the support

low pressure in the oil line at minimum idle speed, the pressure in the lubrication system of a warm engine must be at least 2.0 bar)

Check the pressure in the lubrication system. You can measure the pressure by connecting

pressure gauge to the oil line by unscrewing the oil pressure sensor

Troubleshoot the lubrication system

 

Strong engine vibration

Uneven compression across the cylinders is more than 2 bar: gaps in the valve drive are not adjusted, wear or damage to valves, seats; wear, sticking or breakage of piston rings

Checking the compression. Compression must be at least 11 bar

Adjust valve clearances. Replace defective parts

Insulation damage on high-voltage appliances and circuits - interruptions in sparking

Using an ohmmeter, check for an open or "breakdown" of the ignition coil windings and high-voltage wires

Replace faulty ignition coil, damaged high voltage wires. Under severe operating conditions (salt on the roads, frost alternating with thaws), it is advisable to replace the wires every 3-5 years

The high voltage wires are connected to the ignition coil in the wrong order; one or more wires are disconnected

Inspection

Connect the wires according to the markings on the ignition coil

defective spark plugs

Check spark plugs

Replace defective spark plugs

The gap between the electrodes of the candles is not correct

A gap of 1.0-1.1 mm is checked with a round feeler gauge

Bending the side electrode, set the desired gap or replace the candles

Strong deposits on the electrodes of the spark plugs; soot particles getting into the gap between the electrodes

Inspection. By soot, you can, as a rule, determine the performance of the candle and the condition of the engine

Clean the spark plugs with compressed air or mechanically. (Do not damage the insulator!). Identify and eliminate the cause of increased carbon formation in the combustion chamber, replace if necessary

candles

Open or short circuit in the windings of the injectors or their circuits

Check the injector windings and their circuits with an ohmmeter

Replace defective injectors, ensure contact in electrical circuits

Nozzles are leaking (overflow) or their nozzles are dirty

Check the tightness and shape of the nozzle spray pattern

Dirty nozzles can be washed on a special stand. Leaky and heavily soiled nozzles should be replaced

The idle speed controller or its electrical circuit is faulty

Warning light may be on. Substitute a known-good regulator

Replace defective regulator

The supports of the power unit have lost elasticity or collapsed, their fastening has weakened

Inspection

Replace supports, tighten fasteners

Increased content of harmful substances in exhaust gases

Nozzles are leaking (overflow) or their nozzles are dirty

Check the tightness and shape of the nozzle spray pattern

Dirty nozzles can be washed on a special stand. Replace leaking and heavily soiled nozzles

Insulation damage on high-voltage appliances and circuits - interruptions in sparking

To check high-voltage wires and ignition coils, replace them with known good ones

Replace faulty ignition coil, damaged high voltage wires. Under severe operating conditions (salt on the roads, frost alternating with thaws), it is advisable to replace the wires every 3-5 years

defective spark plugs: current leakage through cracks in the insulator or carbon deposits on the thermal cone, poor contact of the central electrode

Check the candles

Replace defective spark plugs

The phase sensor or its circuits are faulty

Signal indicator on

Using a tester, check the health of the phase sensor

Restore the contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor

Faulty coolant temperature sensor

Check the resistance of the sensor with an ohmmeter at various temperatures.

Replace the defective sensor

Faulty throttle position sensor or circuit

The warning light is on. Check throttle position sensor

Restore the contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor

One or both oxygen sensors are faulty

Signal indicator on

You can evaluate the performance of oxygen concentration sensors and the reliability of their electrical circuit connections using diagnostic equipment.

Repair damaged electrical circuits. Replace defective sensor(s)

Mass air flow sensor and its circuits are faulty

The warning light is on. Check the health of the mass sensor

Air flow can be done using diagnostic equipment

Restore contacts in electrical circuits. Replace the defective mass air flow sensor

The controller or its circuits are faulty

substitute a known-good controller for testing

Restore contacts in electrical circuits. Replace defective controller

Leakage in the exhaust system in the area between the collector and the pipe of the additional muffler

Inspection at medium crankshaft speed

Replace the defective gasket, tighten the threaded connections

Faulty catalytic converter

The warning light is on. You can check the serviceability of the exhaust gas catalytic converter using diagnostic equipment

Replace catalytic converter

Increased pressure in the fuel lines due to a faulty pressure regulator

Inspection, pressure gauge test

in the fuel system (max. 4.0 bar) at idle

Replace the defective regulator

The engine control system warning light comes on when the engine is running

The controller, sensors, injectors or their circuits are faulty. The malfunction may be temporary, then the signaling device may go out by itself, without any intervention

See previous troubleshooting sections. Complete diagnostics of the control systemtsya using specialized equipment

If most sensors fail (except for the crankshaft position sensor), you can drive to the repair site on your own. Replace faulty controller, sensors, injectors, wires

Separate sensors, injectors were disconnected (possibly for testing), after which the ignition was turned on (the engine was started). At the same time, the corresponding fault code is recorded in the computer's memory, which is not erased even after the electrical connections are restored

Remove the negative cable terminal from the battery terminal for at least 10 seconds. In this case, all fault codes are erased from the controller's memory