Replacing clutch cylinders is mainly associated with such defects:
- - clutch does not disengage (pedal fails);
- - fluid leak from the cylinder;
- - the clutch slips (the piston of the cylinder slowly returns to its original position due to the swelling of the cuff).
Removing the hydraulic master cylinder
We drain the working fluid from the hydraulic drive (see Bleeding the clutch hydraulic drive and replacing the working fluid in the gazelle).
Use the “12” key to unscrew the tube fitting from the master cylinder.
Under the dashboard, holding the rod axis with the “19” key, unscrew the nut with the “17” key
And take out the stem axis
Remove plastic bushings
With the “13” key, we unscrew the two nuts securing the master cylinder.
Remove the hydraulic master cylinder.
To adjust the position of the clutch pedal and ensure its stroke is within 145–160 mm, and the stroke of the operating cylinder is at least 14 mm, loosen the locknut with a large screwdriver and a “13” wrench
After that, we reduce or increase the length of the cylinder rod by turning or wrapping the eye.
Having tightened the locknut, install the hydraulic drive master cylinder in reverse order.
Lubricate plastic bushings with any grease
Removing the working cylinder of the hydraulic actuator
Drain the working fluid from the hydraulic drive.
Using the “17” key, we loosen the tightening of the tip of the hydraulic drive hose.
Using a key or a “12” head, unscrew the two bolts and disconnect the slave cylinder from the clutch housing.
Rotating the cylinder around the axis, remove it from the threaded part of the hose end.
There is a copper sealing washer under the tip.
Replace the copper washer to ensure the tightness of the hydraulic drive
Install the cylinder in the reverse order, making sure that the clutch release fork has not moved from the support.
Fill in fresh working fluid and pump the hydraulic drive.